The alignment clamp that does the part a heater blade can't: holding two cut ends of PVC waterstop strip square, centered and rib-matched so the weld fuses into one continuous, uninterrupted profile — not just two ends stuck together.
Welding PVC waterstop with a heater blade only produces a watertight joint if both cut ends stay perfectly square, centered and aligned rib-for-rib while the plastic melts and fuses. Held by hand, even a careful installer will let the ends drift slightly out of true — and a joint where the ribs or center bulb don't line up is exactly the kind of defect that turns into a leak path years later, right where the strip changes direction or branches.
The jointing jig solves that by clamping both ends in a fixed frame sized to the waterstop's profile. The ends are cut square, seated in the jig and drawn up tight so the ribs match; the jig then opens just enough to let the heated blade pass between the two faces, and closes again to press the softened ends together under even pressure. The result is a joint that keeps the same cross-section as the rest of the strip, instead of a lump where two ends were mashed together.
It's a companion tool to the PVC Waterstop Heater Blade — the blade supplies the heat, the jig supplies the accuracy.
Use the jig on site for straight butt joints, simple corners, and repairs or extensions where a factory fitting isn't practical or available fast enough.
Use factory-molded intersections for complex T-pieces and crosses wherever your project schedule allows ordering them in advance — they're generally faster to install and more consistent than a field weld at a busy junction. Ask us for factory fittings alongside your jig and blade order.
The jig and heater blade are used together in one continuous sequence — plan for both when you order.
Trim the PVC waterstop strip ends with a sharp knife or fine-tooth saw so the cut face is flat and perpendicular to the strip.
Place both ends into the jig and slide them so roughly 10–15 mm of strip protrudes past the jig face on each side — this is the material that will melt and fuse.
Check that the ribs and center bulb of both pieces line up squarely before tightening the clamp screws. If they don't match, loosen and reposition before proceeding — this is the step that determines weld quality.
Slide the two halves of the jig apart and position the pre-heated heater blade between the strip ends until an even, molten bead of PVC appears around the full section.
Remove the blade and immediately slide the jig closed, pressing the softened ends firmly together under even clamp pressure.
Keep the joint clamped for about one minute while it fuses, then leave it to cool for roughly five minutes before removing it from the jig or flexing the join.
Jigs are matched to a specific waterstop profile, so sizing is confirmed against the series and width you're ordering rather than sold as one universal size.
| Attribute | Specification |
|---|---|
| Function | Aligns & clamps two waterstop strip ends for heater-blade welding |
| Frame material | Steel / aluminum clamp frame with assembly screws |
| Sizing | Matched to waterstop profile width and rib pattern (confirm series & width when ordering) |
| Recommended protrusion | Approx. 10–15 mm of strip beyond the jig face per side |
| Joint types supported | Straight joints, corners, T-pieces, crosses |
| Used with | PVC Waterstop Heater Blade |
| Reusability | Reusable clamp tool, not a per-joint consumable |
Exact jig dimensions are matched to the PVC waterstop series and width in your order — a jig sized for one profile will not correctly align a different profile. Confirm your waterstop series and width when requesting a quote.
The jig is used together with a heated blade, so the same ventilation precautions apply. Heating PVC releases hydrogen chloride mist and vapor; forced ventilation or a suitable respirator is required, especially in confined spaces such as basements, tunnels and manholes.
It clamps two cut ends of PVC waterstop strip in fixed, square alignment so the ribs and center bulb of both pieces line up exactly while a heater blade melts and fuses the joint. Without a jig, alignment depends entirely on the installer holding both ends steady by hand.
Jigs are sized to a specific waterstop profile width and rib pattern, so the jig you order should match the waterstop series and width you're installing. Tell us your profile (for example BC, SO, BW, SV or KC Series) and width when requesting a quote.
A jointing jig can be used for straight butt joints, corners, T-pieces and crosses, provided the strip ends are cut and positioned correctly. That said, for complex crosses and tees on a large job, factory-molded fittings are usually faster and more consistent — most crews use the jig for straight joints, repairs and simple corners, and order factory fittings for the rest.
Leave the joint clamped and undisturbed for about one minute while it fuses, then let it cool for approximately five minutes before removing it from the jig or flexing it. Handling a joint too soon can pull it apart before the weld has fully set.
Yes, the jig and the heater blade are sold as separate items, though they're designed to be used together and most buyers order both at the same time along with their waterstop strip.
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